The Mexican Baja California red rock lobster, flourishing in the bay's rich waters, are fished out in apparently unlimited numbers. Weighing in at one to two pounds (about 1/2 to 1 kilogram), they come to the table bright red on platters heaped with rice, refried beans, salsa and tortillas.

At most of the restaurants the lobsters come out split and cooked, with the halves stacked on a platter, served family style. The traditional way to cook them is deep frying, but Ortega's serves them steamed.

Most of the lobsters served today are from farther south on the peninsula, south of Ensenada. Restaurateurs feel certain that the supply is not in jeopardy there, citing its protection by a fishermen's syndicate and the concern and attention of the Mexican coast guard.